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Expat Life: Local Discoveries, Global Connections

Day 3-5

CraigM

Well-known member
Can't believe what a blur this trip has been. It's my first vacation without family so I did a lot of planning to make sure I wasn't ever bored, but it is hard to be bored here and I've probably been trying to do too much.

Most days start at Moshu Treehouse for coffee, followed by taking an Ecobici to tennis at SportClub Obras Alcorta (where my instructor plays) or going to the gym "Always" across the street. My old university roommate arrived Sunday so we've done some tourist things like the cemetery, strolling Recoleta, etc. We eat so much for dinner I usually don't feel hungry until 1pm the next day, whereupon I look at my list (all compiled from recommendations here) to figure out where to eat next. Sottovoce still the favorite for lunch, we will eat there at least once more before going home.

Last night we went to the football match San Lorenzo vs Atletico Mineiro from Brazil which ended in a 1-1 tie; San Lorenzo scored a beautiful goal in the first half but their keeper gave up an easy one later on. We booked it through AirBnB where you meet a guide two hours before the game who takes you to a local sidewalk eatery for Choripan and Empanadas and gets you to the game and back safely. We were paired up with a group of fellows in their mid 20's from Brazil, Mexico, Argentina and France, all spoke perfect English and were very interesting. Think I enjoyed that as much as the game itself.

I also found time to visit a dentist here that I found on the State Department website, Isaac Meta. Very good and very reasonably priced, like everything else here. His office is in Soho.
 
Can't believe what a blur this trip has been. It's my first vacation without family so I did a lot of planning to make sure I wasn't ever bored, but it is hard to be bored here and I've probably been trying to do too much.

Most days start at Moshu Treehouse for coffee, followed by taking an Ecobici to tennis at SportClub Obras Alcorta (where my instructor plays) or going to the gym "Always" across the street. My old university roommate arrived Sunday so we've done some tourist things like the cemetery, strolling Recoleta, etc. We eat so much for dinner I usually don't feel hungry until 1pm the next day, whereupon I look at my list (all compiled from recommendations here) to figure out where to eat next. Sottovoce still the favorite for lunch, we will eat there at least once more before going home.

Last night we went to the football match San Lorenzo vs Atletico Mineiro from Brazil which ended in a 1-1 tie; San Lorenzo scored a beautiful goal in the first half but their keeper gave up an easy one later on. We booked it through AirBnB where you meet a guide two hours before the game who takes you to a local sidewalk eatery for Choripan and Empanadas and gets you to the game and back safely. We were paired up with a group of fellows in their mid 20's from Brazil, Mexico, Argentina and France, all spoke perfect English and were very interesting. Think I enjoyed that as much as the game itself.

I also found time to visit a dentist here that I found on the State Department website, Isaac Meta. Very good and very reasonably priced, like everything else here. His office is in Soho.
I'm getting hungry just thinking about Sottovoce. If you didn't try the Almendrado ice cream there for dessert save some room for that. It's really good. Love the old school waiters there. I've literally had everything on the menu and it's all great!

That's one thing about Buenos Aires. There is always so much to do there. Typically when I'm in town I'm busy from morning to very late into the wee hours of the morning each and every day. As you figured out, it's a very late night town. Awesome you could go to a football match!

Medical services are very good and affordable in Buenos Aires. You're doing the trip right!
 
Can't believe what a blur this trip has been. It's my first vacation without family so I did a lot of planning to make sure I wasn't ever bored, but it is hard to be bored here and I've probably been trying to do too much.

Most days start at Moshu Treehouse for coffee, followed by taking an Ecobici to tennis at SportClub Obras Alcorta (where my instructor plays) or going to the gym "Always" across the street. My old university roommate arrived Sunday so we've done some tourist things like the cemetery, strolling Recoleta, etc. We eat so much for dinner I usually don't feel hungry until 1pm the next day, whereupon I look at my list (all compiled from recommendations here) to figure out where to eat next. Sottovoce still the favorite for lunch, we will eat there at least once more before going home.

Last night we went to the football match San Lorenzo vs Atletico Mineiro from Brazil which ended in a 1-1 tie; San Lorenzo scored a beautiful goal in the first half but their keeper gave up an easy one later on. We booked it through AirBnB where you meet a guide two hours before the game who takes you to a local sidewalk eatery for Choripan and Empanadas and gets you to the game and back safely. We were paired up with a group of fellows in their mid 20's from Brazil, Mexico, Argentina and France, all spoke perfect English and were very interesting. Think I enjoyed that as much as the game itself.

I also found time to visit a dentist here that I found on the State Department website, Isaac Meta. Very good and very reasonably priced, like everything else here. His office is in Soho.
Wow how busy you are staying! That is the way to do a trip. I had busy first few trips to BA like that but once you move here it's a bit more slow paced. Figuring out what to eat is always a fun exercise.

Most people don't get to enjoy a soccer game so good that you did. I heard that Airbnb experiences were getting popular so good that they had that. How was was that experience @CraigM? Do you have a link to it in case others want to try it?

Dr. Meta is very good. I mentioned them on another thread. My friend goes to him.

 
Busy busy @CraigM.It is fun reading your trip report. Reminds me of my first time to Buenos Aires. Of course, there weren't as many things back then like today. Far more restaurants, activities than many years ago. It is a big positive to see all of the things that have improved in BA over the years.
 
Can't believe what a blur this trip has been. It's my first vacation without family so I did a lot of planning to make sure I wasn't ever bored, but it is hard to be bored here and I've probably been trying to do too much.

Most days start at Moshu Treehouse for coffee, followed by taking an Ecobici to tennis at SportClub Obras Alcorta (where my instructor plays) or going to the gym "Always" across the street. My old university roommate arrived Sunday so we've done some tourist things like the cemetery, strolling Recoleta, etc. We eat so much for dinner I usually don't feel hungry until 1pm the next day, whereupon I look at my list (all compiled from recommendations here) to figure out where to eat next. Sottovoce still the favorite for lunch, we will eat there at least once more before going home.

Last night we went to the football match San Lorenzo vs Atletico Mineiro from Brazil which ended in a 1-1 tie; San Lorenzo scored a beautiful goal in the first half but their keeper gave up an easy one later on. We booked it through AirBnB where you meet a guide two hours before the game who takes you to a local sidewalk eatery for Choripan and Empanadas and gets you to the game and back safely. We were paired up with a group of fellows in their mid 20's from Brazil, Mexico, Argentina and France, all spoke perfect English and were very interesting. Think I enjoyed that as much as the game itself.

I also found time to visit a dentist here that I found on the State Department website, Isaac Meta. Very good and very reasonably priced, like everything else here. His office is in Soho.
Moshu Treehouse has a good atmosphere. They have great lattes there. Very friendly service. It can be a bit noisy as it gets busy but if you're not going to work then it is a nice place. It sounds like you are too full from dinner but the sweets and baked goods are quite nice there also.

How nice you have friends in town and also a friend to join you. I think Buenos Aires is a great city to spend time with friends. It sounds like you are having so much fun @CraigM. You will have to come back with your family one day.
 
Wow 2 times at the same restaurant? With all the great places it must be very good. Why repeat? What did you have both times that you ate there at Sotto Voce @CraigM? It must be very good. My friend said that was her favorite Italian restaurant. I would also be interested in doing that soccer experience if you have a link to the Airbnb. Greatly appreciated.
 
Have you adjusted to the very late night culture there @CraigM? Has your friend taken you to any authentic asados? It's a real treat if you get the chance to do that do it. If you have local friends there likely they can set that up for you. Or there are some Airbnb Experiences I have heard of locals putting together an authentic asado.

Also, Buenos Aires used to have more closed door restaurants but many closed during Covid. A fun experience if you enjoy bonding with some other travelers since you mentioned you enjoyed talking with the other tourists, is Casa Saltshaker.

My wife and I went there many years ago. The owner, Dan is an American and puts together dinners in his home. We met with travelers from Canada, UK and Hong Kong as well as Americans during the dinner and the food was very nice. That was a fun experience. Not sure if that kind of thing interests you or not. His place is in Recoleta.

 
Can't believe what a blur this trip has been. It's my first vacation without family so I did a lot of planning to make sure I wasn't ever bored, but it is hard to be bored here and I've probably been trying to do too much.

Most days start at Moshu Treehouse for coffee, followed by taking an Ecobici to tennis at SportClub Obras Alcorta (where my instructor plays) or going to the gym "Always" across the street. My old university roommate arrived Sunday so we've done some tourist things like the cemetery, strolling Recoleta, etc. We eat so much for dinner I usually don't feel hungry until 1pm the next day, whereupon I look at my list (all compiled from recommendations here) to figure out where to eat next. Sottovoce still the favorite for lunch, we will eat there at least once more before going home.

Last night we went to the football match San Lorenzo vs Atletico Mineiro from Brazil which ended in a 1-1 tie; San Lorenzo scored a beautiful goal in the first half but their keeper gave up an easy one later on. We booked it through AirBnB where you meet a guide two hours before the game who takes you to a local sidewalk eatery for Choripan and Empanadas and gets you to the game and back safely. We were paired up with a group of fellows in their mid 20's from Brazil, Mexico, Argentina and France, all spoke perfect English and were very interesting. Think I enjoyed that as much as the game itself.

I also found time to visit a dentist here that I found on the State Department website, Isaac Meta. Very good and very reasonably priced, like everything else here. His office is in Soho.
@CraigM which plan did you go for with the Ecobici? A friend recently came to visit me but she said she downloaded the App but it wouldn't work. I'm just curious which plan you got? Did you just go with a weekly plan?

 
@CraigM which plan did you go for with the Ecobici? A friend recently came to visit me but she said she downloaded the App but it wouldn't work. I'm just curious which plan you got? Did you just go with a weekly plan?

Same thing happens when my friend tried to sign up. They always get this error message. I had to end up letting them use my log in. They signed up with their passport but the app never works for them.

IMG_5656.jpg
 
I'm getting hungry just thinking about Sottovoce. If you didn't try the Almendrado ice cream there for dessert save some room for that. It's really good. Love the old school waiters there. I've literally had everything on the menu and it's all great!

That's one thing about Buenos Aires. There is always so much to do there. Typically when I'm in town I'm busy from morning to very late into the wee hours of the morning each and every day. As you figured out, it's a very late night town. Awesome you could go to a football match!

Medical services are very good and affordable in Buenos Aires. You're doing the trip right!
And there you go, one more excuse to return to Sottovoce. Thanks Mike!
 
Wow how busy you are staying! That is the way to do a trip. I had busy first few trips to BA like that but once you move here it's a bit more slow paced. Figuring out what to eat is always a fun exercise.

Most people don't get to enjoy a soccer game so good that you did. I heard that Airbnb experiences were getting popular so good that they had that. How was was that experience @CraigM? Do you have a link to it in case others want to try it?

Dr. Meta is very good. I mentioned them on another thread. My friend goes to him.

Now that I think of it, I got Dr Meta's name from that article so thank you Betsy! I later looked him up on the State Dept website.

There are several AirBnB links for soccer but here's the one we used this week: https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/...ectionId=0b278802-8413-4136-8d6e-0aa4153cb486
 
Moshu Treehouse has a good atmosphere. They have great lattes there. Very friendly service. It can be a bit noisy as it gets busy but if you're not going to work then it is a nice place. It sounds like you are too full from dinner but the sweets and baked goods are quite nice there also.

How nice you have friends in town and also a friend to join you. I think Buenos Aires is a great city to spend time with friends. It sounds like you are having so much fun @CraigM. You will have to come back with your family one day.
Thank you! I sure hope to come back with family, I think they will love it as well.
 
Wow 2 times at the same restaurant? With all the great places it must be very good. Why repeat? What did you have both times that you ate there at Sotto Voce @CraigM? It must be very good. My friend said that was her favorite Italian restaurant. I would also be interested in doing that soccer experience if you have a link to the Airbnb. Greatly appreciated.
No problem, I posted the link above. If you check AirBnB Experiences and click on Sports it's mostly soccer games that pop up. There is also LandingPadBA.com, seems like their main commercial activity is arranging these tickets. We are going to another game this weekend!
 
Fabulous reporting. You are having a great time. I also had fun on my month long trip there. @CraigM what are some things you don't like about the city or what would you say is the biggest negative to you? Anything you don't like?
That's a good question, I would say the Ecobici app is the one negative. I could never have figured it out on my own, and it took my local friend using his own passport, credit card and DNI to get it done on my phone. Once you get it the app works great every time, never had a problem getting a bike instantly, but getting the app is an unholy pain. My friend from London speaks enough Spanish to understand what it's asking us to do, but it simply doesn't work. It's a terrible shame.

One other negative I guess is dog poop. It's not on every block but there's enough (especially in Palermo) that you have to watch where you step. It doesn't bother me very much but it's an eyesore on an otherwise beautiful and fabulous city. Recoleta doesn't have nearly as much, in fact I can't remember seeing any.
 
Have you adjusted to the very late night culture there @CraigM? Has your friend taken you to any authentic asados? It's a real treat if you get the chance to do that do it. If you have local friends there likely they can set that up for you. Or there are some Airbnb Experiences I have heard of locals putting together an authentic asado.

Also, Buenos Aires used to have more closed door restaurants but many closed during Covid. A fun experience if you enjoy bonding with some other travelers since you mentioned you enjoyed talking with the other tourists, is Casa Saltshaker.

My wife and I went there many years ago. The owner, Dan is an American and puts together dinners in his home. We met with travelers from Canada, UK and Hong Kong as well as Americans during the dinner and the food was very nice. That was a fun experience. Not sure if that kind of thing interests you or not. His place is in Recoleta.

Great recommendation, I'll see if we have time!

Unfortunately I have not adjusted to the late night culture at all, I've just been an early riser for far too long. We are always leaving dinner before the place even gets crowded. We actually got back from the football game at 12:30am and that might be the first time I saw midnight in 20 years!
 
That's a good question, I would say the Ecobici app is the one negative. I could never have figured it out on my own, and it took my local friend using his own passport, credit card and DNI to get it done on my phone. Once you get it the app works great every time, never had a problem getting a bike instantly, but getting the app is an unholy pain. My friend from London speaks enough Spanish to understand what it's asking us to do, but it simply doesn't work. It's a terrible shame.

One other negative I guess is dog poop. It's not on every block but there's enough (especially in Palermo) that you have to watch where you step. It doesn't bother me very much but it's an eyesore on an otherwise beautiful and fabulous city. Recoleta doesn't have nearly as much, in fact I can't remember seeing any.
Yes this is a known issue with the Bike app. Locals usually don't have problems that have a DNI but for some reason passports have had issues. A true shame. Hopefully they get that fixed soon. When I have friends in town, I let them use my sign in.

Great recommendation, I'll see if we have time!

Unfortunately I have not adjusted to the late night culture at all, I've just been an early riser for far too long. We are always leaving dinner before the place even gets crowded. We actually got back from the football game at 12:30am and that might be the first time I saw midnight in 20 years!
That's the biggest issue for people that aren't used to a late night city. Often times I'll still be at a dinner at 1:30 AM or sometimes at asados even until 2 AM which is crazy. But glad you're staying up late Craig!
 
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