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Trip Reports Colonia Money run via Buquebus - A quick review

kenobi

New member
Hola all. First contribution here - hope someone in the future might find this helpful.

Yesterday I made an overnight trip to Colonia via Buquebus for the primary purpose of replenishing my supply of USD cash. I planned this trip a few weeks in advance, before I learned that it's possible to transfer and withdraw USD from certain cuevas in Buenos Aires.

My Buquebus departure time was around noon, and I arrived two hours early to be safe. I probably could have arrived an hour later and still have had plenty of time to kill. Check-in was a breeze - I purchased a business class ticket, with a dedicated check-in line, VIP lounge, and priority boarding and disembarkation. Argentine and Uruguayan immigration sit next to each other at the same desk inside the terminal, so the Argentine official just hands your passport over to the next guy and you get your Uruguayan entry stamp before even boarding the ferry. I had carry-on luggage only, and despite the Buquebus website stating "no liquids allowed," my bag containing liquid toiletries and body wash passed through the X-ray machine without so much as a glance from the security officials. It seemed like they are mostly disinterested in anything other than probably firearms.

The ferry left on time and the onboard experience was pleasant. Business class passengers have a dedicated upstairs seating area with spacious recliners and room to breathe, while the tourist class (regular class) passengers are seated in airline style seating and it seemed a lot more packed and chaotic. Complimentary champagne was also available for business class passengers. Disembarkation in Colonia is super easy, you simply walk off the boat and you're on your way, unless you need to gather checked luggage first. I will say the duty free shop onboard the ferry was super expensive for those used to using the blue dollar - liquor bottle prices were double that of what you would find in a Buenos Aires supermercado.

Downtown Colonia is very easily walkable and I ignored the taxis lined up outside the terminal and walked a half dozen or so blocks to the hotel to check-in. Once that was taken care of, my next stop was straight to Banco de la República Oriental del Uruguay (or BROU for short) to withdraw USD. I had read many previous BAexpats threads mentioning that the ATMs have low limits ($300 per transaction), that the machines are finicky, that there will be hordes of Argentinians waiting in line, and that machines will run out of cash if you don't arrive early in the day. I didn't experience any of that.

When I entered the bank there were four ATM machines, and only one of them was being used. I entered my U.S. debit card, pressed the "English" option, entered my PIN and the machine immediately offered me the option to withdraw USD. The amounts I was offered ranged from $100 to $600, so I selected the $600 option. The machine dispensed $600 with a $5 transaction fee, and then I re-entered my card to withdraw funds a second time. The second time around I noticed that there was an "other" option for amount, so I manually entered $700 to see what would happen. The machine gave me $700 with another $5 transaction fee, and then I was on my way as that was all the USD I need for the immediate future. So all in all, $1300 USD with $10 in transaction fees and minimal fuss. The bills were all crisp and in excellent condition, like they had just been unwrapped from the plastic.

I was glad to discover that the transaction limits were at least double that of what I've previously read. I honestly don't know what the current maximum amount is per transaction. Since the machine accepted my request for $700 in a single transaction, it's certainly possible that the actual transaction limit could be even higher, possibly $800 to $1000.

Colonia was gorgeous and it was a perfect day weather wise. I've attached a couple of pic collages of various photos I took around town today. You can see tourists starting to trickle in, but it's still pretty quiet at the moment. I'm wondering if the higher transaction limits at the ATM are the new normal, or if the limits are reduced once the tourist high season arrives.

All in all it was a good trip and I've had fun, but it's probably not the most economical way to stock up on USD. The ferry's not cheap, and while doing a day trip is possible, grabbing a hotel overnight as I did will add even more expense. I've recently learned that in the future I can use Zelle to transfer USD from my bank account to cuevas in Buenos Aires, who will then give me USD cash in exchange for a cut of approximately 5%. In my case, 5% of $1300 would have been $65, which would have been cheaper than my ferry ticket. And of course, time is money, so all the better if you can take care of business in Buenos Aires without have to make a special trip "overseas."

I probably won't be making more money runs to Colonia in the future unless the savings is worth the effort. For example, if I needed $5000, 5% at a Buenos Aires cueva would be $250, so in that case I might be tempted to make a Colonia day trip again since the ferry ticket would be much cheaper than the cueva. However, I only expect to need about $1,000 a month in USD cash going forward, so just going to a cueva and doing a Zelle transfer every month will probably make more sense for me in the long run. My bank allows ATM withdrawals of up to $5,050 per day, so maybe in a few months I'll go back to Colonia and see if it's possible to get that much from BROU in a single day, and if so, what's the least number of transactions possible now that I know the single transaction limit is higher than previously reported.

Anyways, hope this is helpful, and enjoy the pics!


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Awesome! Glad you had a safe and productive trip. I used to have a house there so I went often. You used to be a blessing to take out $900 so maybe try that if you go back. IIRC, I typed it in the keypad. But it always worked for me. You won't have issues with a cueva for less than 5% fee.
 
Excellent post and info, thank you! Wondering what was your return experience was like, specifically going through Argentine immigration? I've used the Colonia Express once and it took forever, 2+ hours, and people were literally passing out from standing so long in the enclosed hall. Departing Argentina was a breeze.
 
Excellent post and info, thank you! Wondering what was your return experience was like, specifically going through Argentine immigration? I've used the Colonia Express once and it took forever, 2+ hours, and people were literally passing out from standing so long in the enclosed hall. Departing Argentina was a breeze.
I'm returning via Buquebus this afternoon, so I can let you know. Yesterday when I departed Buenos Aires they escorted the business class passengers onboard before everyone else, and likewise, we disembarked first when we arrived in Colonia. I'm assuming (hopefully) it will be the same returning to Argentina and that we'll have priority disembarkation and be first in line to immigration. Can't speak to the procedures on Colonia Express ferries. Buquebus business class may be the way to go to avoid immigration delays, especially once high season kicks off.
 
We went cattle (tourist) class yesterday because I had to leave and re-enter for an Argentine bureaucracy reason, and it was smooth sailing. Definitely agree with seeing Colonia outside the high season, because I'm sure it could be aggravating with the touristy crowds and the even higher prices that brings.

I will point out that nothing is cheap in Colonia. Food is expensive, kioscos are expensive, everything is expensive. Very cute, very day-trip worthy.
 
@JeffR onboard experience definitely depends on the ship. On the trip to Colonia I was on the Buquebus ferry "Francisco" which is a newer catamaran. The onboard experience was pretty sleek and modern, and the business class seats were huge with lots of space between each individual seat. The business class section had its own food and drink bar as well. The return journey was on the ferry "Silvia Ana," which is a much older ferry. No food and drink bar, and the business class seats were 3x3 airline style, although larger and less cramped than tourist class. The experience on the "Silvia Ana" felt less "luxe" and much more dated.

I can confirm though that business class got priority disembarkation in Buenos Aires, which was fantastic. I was concerned at first, because the business class section on the "Silvia Ana" is at the front of the ship and you have to navigate through tourist class to get to it (i.e. tourist class passengers are much closer to the exits when the ferry arrives in Buenos Aires). This differs from the ferry "Francisco" where you can board and disembark directly to and from business class without ever having to enter the tourist class spaces. However, once we arrived in Buenos Aires, the "Silvia Ana" staff basically formed a gauntlet down the walkways, preventing tourist class passengers from leaving their seats and allowing the business class passengers to be first in line for immigration.

The ferry was pretty crowded as it was a late afternoon return from Colonia, and I would not have wanted to have been deep in the tourist class line for immigration, there were easily several hundred passengers. I could easily see myself being in line for at least an hour and probably much longer during high season. As I was one of the first few off the boat, I was able to process through immigration in about 8 minutes from the time I entered the queue.

I just looked at a random weekday a couple of weeks out and the difference in cost between tourist and business class is $9 USD each way. For me that's worth it just for the priority immigration processing in Buenos Aires alone. There's definitely more added value on the way to Colonia since the Buenos Aires departure terminal has a priority check-in line, VIP lounge, and priority boarding. Less added value on the return trip because the Colonia departure terminal does not have a priority check-in line, VIP lounge, or priority boarding, so you have to wait and queue with everyone else. In Colonia, about 20 minutes before boarding even started a few hundred tourist class passengers formed a huge line to get onboard as fast as possible to get the best seats. I just sat and waited until everyone else was finished and boarded last - the business class section was only half full, so I still had a row of seats all to myself.

@dark - I agree on Colonia being super expensive, especially restaurants. First bistro I went to on arrival day, one beer and two small snack/tapas size burritos was $22. Dinner the first night at a brewpub came out to $50 for two beers, a small cheese plate appetizer, and a not very good entree of roast beef and sweet potatoes. Lunch on departure day was $33 for one beer and a small bowl of shrimp pasta. After spending $100 in less than 24 hours on restaurant food for just myself, I was super ready to get the heck out of there and return to BA. Lovely town and still had a great time, but the prices are ridiculous.
 
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I should also mention in case anyone stumbles into this thread in the future, there doesn't seem to be any benefit to buying Buquebus tickets in Argentine pesos, as was discussed in a previous thread. Buquebus seem to have adjusted the ARS prices to compensate.

For example, if you book via buquebus.com, tickets are sold in ARS. A trip to Colonia two weeks from now on October 12th is ARS 34.173 (tourist class) or ARS 43.710 (business class), which at the current MEP rate translates to roughly $48.75 USD (tourist class) or $62.35 (business class).

However, if you book via intl.buquebus.com, tickets are sold in USD and the prices are the same or even cheaper. For example, the same tickets on the same dates are $44 (tourist class) and $53 (business class). So for a business class ticket you actually save almost $10 by booking through the "International" website and paying in USD instead.

The ARS prices on the main website may be inflated online only though, probably to counteract foreign credit card users. The ARS prices buying tickets in person at the BA terminal could possibly be cheaper than what they are charging online.
 
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