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Newcomer Visitor new to Buenos Aires in August 2024: Three Inquiries

JamesB

New member
First-time visitor to Argentina, planning to visit in August 2024 for a three-week stay, primarily in Buenos Aires but with short trips to Colonia and Montevideo. Excited to escape the summer heat and humidity of their hometown!

  1. Exploring options for Airbnb rentals in Palermo, Recoleta, or Retiro, with a focus on convenient access to supermarkets and grocery stores due to planning to cook frequently. Wondering if these neighborhoods offer similar selections of supermarkets or if one has an advantage over the others.
  2. Considering the indoor activity options in Buenos Aires during August, which falls within the city's winter season. Interested in cultural offerings such as those at the Teatro Colon and wondering if there is a robust array of activities available during this time.
  3. Keeping an eye on the economic landscape in Argentina, particularly in light of the recent election of Milei and his proposed economic reforms, which have had a significant impact on the value of the peso since the end of 2023. Curious about how these changes have influenced prices in Buenos Aires and whether the city continues to offer good value for travelers due to currency exchange rates.
Thankss
 
  1. In all three neighborhoods – Palermo, Recoleta, and Retiro – you'll find supermarkets, fruit and vegetable stores, as well as small markets (referred to as "chinos" here). If your cooking leans towards French or upscale Italian cuisine, you'll likely find a wider variety in Recoleta. However, if you enjoy cooking with ingredients from diverse cuisines like Indian, Thai, Greek, or Japanese, being closer to Barrio Chino in Belgrano might be more convenient. Palermo is an excellent base in that case, as it's home to a variety of specialty stores offering ingredients like certain spices, coconut cream, and mirin. (I just noticed you're only staying for 3 weeks... any neighborhood will suffice.)
  2. Buenos Aires boasts a vibrant cultural scene, especially during winter. The Centro Cultural Kirchner (CCK) hosts numerous events, all free of charge. If you speak Spanish, you'll find the theater scene particularly enticing. Several blocks along Corrientes are lined with theaters, akin to Broadway in New York, and there's even a discount ticket booth. However, it's worth noting that the future of arts funding is uncertain under the new government.
  3. This question is a bit tricky. Currently, dining at good restaurants in Buenos Aires remains relatively affordable when compared to other major cities worldwide. However, given the rate at which prices are rising, you may not find this to be the case by August. Already, grocery prices are noticeably increasing.

I hope I have been helpful!
 
Welcome!

I've only stayed in Buenos Aires for about three days each time, but here are a couple of tips:

  1. Try using Google Maps to locate supermarkets or grocery stores by searching for those terms or looking for the shopping cart icon. Locals might also provide you with the names of local stores. Since I'm usually there for just a few days, I find that I can manage with the hotel breakfast and then pick up lunch or dinner locally.
  2. You can search in this forum there are many threads with things to do in BA



Additionally, consider checking out travel books. While some people dismiss them in favor of online forums, you'll often find valuable information such as day trip recommendations, transportation tips, weather forecasts, currency details, and guidance on getting around.

For weather information, you can also find statistical data. I use this website for monthly averages: Holiday Weather - Buenos Aires

Remember, the seasons in the southern hemisphere are opposite to those in the northern hemisphere.

Good luck!"
 
In my opinion, I recommend focusing on either Recoleta or Palermo and discounting Retiro. Recoleta, especially the Barrio Norte area, is a very safe choice. There, you'll find large supermarkets like Carrefour and Coto within easy walking distance, along with plenty of smaller shops. Palermo, on the other hand, offers a vibrant scene with numerous bars, restaurants, and nightclubs if that's your preference. However, since taxis are quite affordable, your choice between the two neighborhoods might not significantly impact your mobility, as you're likely to explore both areas extensively.

Regarding prices, they've remained relatively stable by international standards since I began visiting in 2012. However, locals feel the economic strain more keenly due to a significant increase in the poverty rate during this time. I find it highly unlikely that there will be a significant price hike by international standards before August, especially considering the economic forecasts. Milei's proposed economic reforms are expected to exacerbate rather than alleviate economic hardships, which historically has led to a decrease in prices from a visitor's perspective.
 
  1. There's a family-owned supermarket ("Chinos") on almost every block.
  2. Every night, hundreds of bands play live music, so if you enjoy that scene, you'll have plenty of options.
  3. Predicting what Argentina will be like in six months is challenging. Prices and exchange rates have fluctuated, but as a European visitor, I haven't noticed much impact, as everything has remained affordable for me.

Good Luck!
 
I agree Recoleta near Barrio Norte is a very nice area. Prices are reasonable and there are many grocery stores and stores in general. Everything you might need. My family live in that area and very nice.
 
August 2024 for a three-week stay
cool, how'd you do on plane tickets? i try to use Miles (AA, in my case) since they've been so expensive coming from the USA.

your weather will be 40F-86F according to this, so i bet that cool air will be superb compared to places like Las Vegas, Phoenix, Dallas, etc. in the US! https://www.accuweather.com/en/ar/buenos-aires/7894/august-weather/7894?year=2023

Retiro train station looks like a third-world country, and there are bum camps along the north side of the street Libertador. i would stick with Palermo Norte, Palermo Chico, Alto Palermo, and Belgrano (i didn't like Palermo SoHo or Palermo Hollywood due to costs, and i didn't like Recoleta as much, but i would settle for Recoleta if i had to - not unsafe, just not my style. too touristy). i just did 3 months in CABA and i'm now in Cordoba, if you want some specific info @JamesB just reply here! happy to help

prices will be similar at grocery stores - i like Jumbo/Disco/Vea (Cencosud main company), then Coto, then Carrefour Hipermercado, then Carrefour Market, and i skip Carrfour Express because it's just like a CircleK without any veggies/fruits/meat. just packaged stuff and sugar. if you like cooking, i'd recommend living near Barrio Chino (Chinatown) because the Chinese Hipermarkets (not to be confused with the "Chinos" mentioned earlier) have tons of bulk goods and fish and meat and veggies, and you can use your credit card and the prices are good! the regular tiendas chinas not in Barrio Chino are usually cash-only, staffed by unpleasant people in my opinion (Chinese immigrants who sometimes don't even speak Spanish), and overall i don't like their prices or goods. you will find many locals who rave about Chinos...i disagree. but Barrio Chino has everything!

the area depends what you're going to do. i walk a lot. most people refuse to walk more than a quarter-mile, since Uber is $5 to go anywhere. this is what i think of when people say Retiro: https://maps.app.goo.gl/oRWhVbVP1z8fru586

glance left and right and enjoy the graffiti, trash, transients (one threw a piece of food at my leg when i ran by, for no reason, and the other 2 laughed - never ran that route again, felt shady and i'm not easily spooked). i see a few options that won't break the bank, but i just guessed at 2 adults, 2 children, 2 bedrooms, and 2 bathrooms, with wifi/washer/air/heat/BBQ:

1. $976 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/103986...share_id=6b18ad66-6402-4bb9-9982-6d450ef8c965

2. $1261 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/576223...share_id=d855e547-1d03-4584-8d6e-d86bd239903f

3. $1377 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/431970...share_id=fcb2df60-2394-4a87-969b-300f0ae263cf

4. $1444 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/841596...share_id=f6f75820-7d13-4078-b0af-71b4d416e4fc

note that adding a 2nd bathroom rules-out a lot in BsAs, and adding a 2nd bedroom also does. if you just need 1 bath and 1 bed (with a pull-out couch in the main TV area), you can get under $800 USD easily. not sure how much you want to pay, and how flexible the fam is. i can help you search if you put more specifics (if you're seasoned on Airbnb, then you don't need help, it's easy here, just remember to message and ask for a discount! 28+ days will give the best Monthly Discount, so put those days in to compare what 3 weeks costs, then negotiate)

i could spend 2 weeks alone in ChinaTown, so don't forget about Belgrano! it's a tiny bit slower, but i liked it the best. Nunez and Saavedra are even nicer! but they're as far out in CABA as you can get - houses in the suburbs, 2-way cobblestone streets, less traffic, cleaner, etc.). if your fam wants to do touristy stuff daily, then probably want to be within 1 mile of those areas/buildings they want. what might seem like a fun day to me is horrifying to someone who wants to film themselves on Instagram with all the latest trends. mostly, how did you spend your last trip together? fast-paced? walking a lot? eating out? spending a lot?

for prices and info, follow www.x.com/BowTiedMara on twitter/X

and obviously have your fam practice spanish on DuoLingo etc. because Argentine spanish dialects are a bit harder than what you'd be used to with the hispanic population in the USA (assuming you're coming from US) - the "y" sound becomes "sh" and words like pool are suddenly totally different (piscina is now pileta).

for the credit card ("MEP") rate of the Peso/Dollar, i run a profile at www.twitter.com/ArgentinaMEP for people like you.

price-wise, demented people on this forum like Larry will tell you prices are almost at USA levels. they are not. here is a grocery list i recorded a little ago:
easy to look-up prices on these sites for CABA:

A. Coto https://www.cotodigital3.com.ar/sitios/cdigi/
B. Jumbo https://www.jumbo.com.ar/ or Disco or Vea, whichever is closer to your apartment
C. Carrefour https://www.carrefour.com.ar/

you can get delivery or pickup, but sometimes shopping is part of the experience of a new country :)

word of advice, things like garlic and tea and beef are mega-cheap, but random things are expensive like bananas, cherries, avocados, Ramen, non-sugar-Torrado coffee, vitamins/supplements. so when you see Bell Peppers costing 3400 Pesos or $3.50 USD per kilo, and kiwis cost about $1 USD per, just use other things that are cheaper!

things will be 25-50% of the cost you're used to, depending on how you live and where. ignore the fear-mongers. listen to @Betsy Ross and @earlyretirement and @sophos for experience. on this forum, Avocado, CheVos, and a couple others are Woke peronist locals that give bad info and are really negative about Expats and tourists. just hit Mute on their name, and you'll have a better experience.
 
cool, how'd you do on plane tickets? i try to use Miles (AA, in my case) since they've been so expensive coming from the USA.




Retiro train station looks like a third-world country, and there are bum camps along the north side of the street Libertador. i would stick with Palermo Norte, Palermo Chico, Alto Palermo, and Belgrano (i didn't like Palermo SoHo or Palermo Hollywood due to costs, and i didn't like Recoleta as much, but i would settle for Recoleta if i had to - not unsafe, just not my style. too touristy). i just did 3 months in CABA and i'm now in Cordoba, if you want some specific info @JamesB just reply here! happy to help
Ironic as we found the opposite. We found Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood to be super touristy and Recoleta we thought it was more local besides the touristy Cemetary area. We only saw foreigners in Palermo Soho and Hollywood. Airline tickets were very expensive coming down to Bueons Aires. That along with the hotel was very expensive.

Nice restaurants I wouldn't say were cheap but we were probably dining at the most touristy spots that my husband's work recommended.
 
That along with the hotel was very expensive.
i responded to you on another thread...but why did you get a hotel?? Airbnb bookings are soooo cheap comparatively, and you get 90% the same thing. what did you spend on a hotel per night, and what did you get to justify it?
 
i responded to you on another thread...but why did you get a hotel?? Airbnb bookings are soooo cheap comparatively, and you get 90% the same thing. what did you spend on a hotel per night, and what did you get to justify it?
We stayed at the Park Hyatt hotel. My husband's work paid for the hotel rooms. We got 2 rooms and we did not want to hassle with an Airbnb as we wanted a 5 star experience and we did not have to pay. He got reimbursed for the stay. I was surprised at the price of the rooms. It was over $1,000 US dollars each night for both rooms. We probably would have rented a place if we were paying ourselves but I prefer hotels over apartment rentals when his work is paying for it.
 
We stayed at the Park Hyatt hotel. My husband's work paid for the hotel rooms. We got 2 rooms and we did not want to hassle with an Airbnb as we wanted a 5 star experience and we did not have to pay. He got reimbursed for the stay. I was surprised at the price of the rooms. It was over $1,000 US dollars each night for both rooms. We probably would have rented a place if we were paying ourselves but I prefer hotels over apartment rentals when his work is paying for it.
The Park Hyatt hotel is one of the most expensive and nicest hotels in Buenos Aires. I get why you stayed there if an employer paid for hotels. I'd stay there too if someone else was paying for it!
 
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