Day 6-7

[CraigM]

More great neighborhoods and restaurants! We walked all over Chacarita yesterday afternoon which was wonderful, stopped at a couple of good cafes and ate lunch at Esquina. Dinner was at Gran Bar Danzon which is a great spot. As usual we were leaving just as the place was revving up with people but there was a noticeable buzz in the air. If you're a late night person this city must be something else.

After the usual morning routines today we had a great lunch at El Mirasol with a couple of attorneys for an oil services company. Super guys and gave us a great perspective on managing a business (not to mention personal finances) through all the hyper inflation. The feeling was that Argentina's future is quite binary - if Milei is able to continue on his reform path and get to the other side of this awful recession, the economy and everything else will take off not to mention foreign investment; otherwise Argentina could be the next Venezuela since that's the path it was on before Milei got elected, and all the people responsible for that are still here (we've heard this same view from several business people). Milei doesn't have a party so he will have to be a very skilled politician to make all this happen.

 

[Wally]

You seem to always end up eating over in Recoleta. I don't blame you as it's a fine neighborhood. I didn't know Gran Bar Danzon was still around. It's been years since I have been there. Cool place which is easy to walk by. BA is the best late night city in the world.

El Mirasol is a great restaurant. It has also been around many years. I don't think Argentina will ever turn into Venezuela. Even all throughout terrible Presidents, we have never ended up that bad. We are definitely a long way from coast is clear but Argentina isn't Venezuela and never will be.

 

[Betsy Ross]

Chacarita is a nice neighborhood. Many good restaurants over there. Growing like crazy.

Good selections on dining out. El Mirasol is a classic. I hope we are through the worst of the recession. Foreign investments are starting to come in with the new RIGI. I also don't think we would go down the path of communism. The amount of things Milei has been able to accomplish without a big party behind him is incredible. Glad you are having fun @CraigM.

 

[earlyretirement]

More great neighborhoods and restaurants! We walked all over Chacarita yesterday afternoon which was wonderful, stopped at a couple of good cafes and ate lunch at Esquina. Dinner was at Gran Bar Danzon which is a great spot. As usual we were leaving just as the place was revving up with people but there was a noticeable buzz in the air. If you're a late night person this city must be something else.

After the usual morning routines today we had a great lunch at El Mirasol with a couple of attorneys for an oil services company. Super guys and gave us a great perspective on managing a business (not to mention personal finances) through all the hyper inflation. The feeling was that Argentina's future is quite binary - if Milei is able to continue on his reform path and get to the other side of this awful recession, the economy and everything else will take off not to mention foreign investment; otherwise Argentina could be the next Venezuela since that's the path it was on before Milei got elected, and all the people responsible for that are still here (we've heard this same view from several business people). Milei doesn't have a party so he will have to be a very skilled politician to make all this happen.

Hey Craig,

Glad you got to check out Gran Bar Danzon. I'm glad that place is still around. I used to go there all the time. It's been around forever. It really gets going later at night and typically has a DJ there later.

It's great to meet up with locals who could give you the lay of the land. Operating businesses in Argentina is not easy and not for the faint at heart. Much better to enjoy Argentina on vacation or retired vs. depending on having a operate a business here. I agree that it won't ever become a "Venezuela". I've been through 5 different Presidents now and seen the good, the bad and the ugly. Hopefully President Milei sets things on a better path for the country.

The mid-term election next year will be very important. Glad you're continuing to have a great time in Buenos Aires.

 

[Digital Nomad]

The first time I went to Gran Bar Danzon I kept walking by the stairway leading up to it. That place doesn't really get going until after midnight. My girlfriend took me there when I first got there. It's better on Thursdays/Fridays/Saturday nights but it doesn't sound like you are too late night of a person.

I don't know too much about politics but my girlfriend's father has said that if Milei fails then Peronism will come back strong again. Even though inflation is slowing down I heard that is just part of the equation.

I haven't been to El Mirasol before. Was it good @CraigM? I think that's right near the Four Seasons hotel? I heard it was good. There are so many places I want to try that are on my list but so many places here.

 

[CraigM]

Hey Craig,

Glad you got to check out Gran Bar Danzon. I'm glad that place is still around. I used to go there all the time. It's been around forever. It really gets going later at night and typically has a DJ there later.

It's great to meet up with locals who could give you the lay of the land. Operating businesses in Argentina is not easy and not for the faint at heart. Much better to enjoy Argentina on vacation or retired vs. depending on having a operate a business here. I agree that it won't ever become a "Venezuela". I've been through 5 different Presidents now and seen the good, the bad and the ugly. Hopefully President Milei sets things on a better path for the country.

The mid-term election next year will be very important. Glad you're continuing to have a great time in Buenos Aires.

I'm sure you're right Mike and it's easier to have perspective when living afar or being able to move easily if things get really difficult. I think when you live in a place like this with your family and business life firmly planted in it, you feel a lot more trapped and worry about the future. One fellow we spoke with was Jewish and talked about the Jews that hung around Germany too long thinking it would never get that bad - no doubt a very different time and place but you can tell that these locals have been thinking about "what if" a lot. Your mind can go to dark places when you feel trapped.

 

[CraigM]

The first time I went to Gran Bar Danzon I kept walking by the stairway leading up to it. That place doesn't really get going until after midnight. My girlfriend took me there when I first got there. It's better on Thursdays/Fridays/Saturday nights but it doesn't sound like you are too late night of a person.

I don't know too much about politics but my girlfriend's father has said that if Milei fails then Peronism will come back strong again. Even though inflation is slowing down I heard that is just part of the equation.

I haven't been to El Mirasol before. Was it good @CraigM? I think that's right near the Four Seasons hotel? I heard it was good. There are so many places I want to try that are on my list but so many places here.

El Mirasol was great, had that old school feel like Sottovocce. Definitely a business lunch place during the week, everyone was well dressed. It was packed.

Haven't been to a bad restaurant yet, all the recommendations here have been excellent. A couple of dishes we tried were a bit bland but I'm more into atmosphere than food and Buenos Aires is pretty awesome for atmosphere, even for this early guy.

 

[CraigM]

You seem to always end up eating over in Recoleta. I don't blame you as it's a fine neighborhood. I didn't know Gran Bar Danzon was still around. It's been years since I have been there. Cool place which is easy to walk by. BA is the best late night city in the world.

El Mirasol is a great restaurant. It has also been around many years. I don't think Argentina will ever turn into Venezuela. Even all throughout terrible Presidents, we have never ended up that bad. We are definitely a long way from coast is clear but Argentina isn't Venezuela and never will be.

Ha! Very true Wally, seems to be my North Star in BA.

 

[import export]

I'm sure you're right Mike and it's easier to have perspective when living afar or being able to move easily if things get really difficult. I think when you live in a place like this with your family and business life firmly planted in it, you feel a lot more trapped and worry about the future. One fellow we spoke with was Jewish and talked about the Jews that hung around Germany too long thinking it would never get that bad - no doubt a very different time and place but you can tell that these locals have been thinking about "what if" a lot. Your mind can go to dark places when you feel trapped.

I see this kind of attitude in much of Latin America. I do business around and live in Brazil and part of the year in Brazil and also Colombia. Many feel hopeless but in Argentina this kind of inflation is backbreaking. Even with the reduction lately annual inflation is over 230% a year. That is unimaginable in most countries around the world.

Very easy for your mind to go in dark places when you have bad leaders in place like Argentina did for decades.

 

[Uncle Wong]

El Mirasol was great, had that old school feel like Sottovocce. Definitely a business lunch place during the week, everyone was well dressed. It was packed.

Haven't been to a bad restaurant yet, all the recommendations here have been excellent. A couple of dishes we tried were a bit bland but I'm more into atmosphere than food and Buenos Aires is pretty awesome for atmosphere, even for this early guy.

I ate over at the Four Seasons one day. That area near the Four Seasons and Park Hyatt hotel was very upscale. Probably had a lot of business travelers if it was close to there. Food was bland for me but still was good. Did you try any pizza there yet @CraigM? I hated the pizza there but I'm curious if you tried it and what you thought of it. People either love it or hate it.

 

[Vince]

I'm sure you're right Mike and it's easier to have perspective when living afar or being able to move easily if things get really difficult. I think when you live in a place like this with your family and business life firmly planted in it, you feel a lot more trapped and worry about the future. One fellow we spoke with was Jewish and talked about the Jews that hung around Germany too long thinking it would never get that bad - no doubt a very different time and place but you can tell that these locals have been thinking about "what if" a lot. Your mind can go to dark places when you feel trapped.

That is a good point Craig. I've lived in Buenos Aires a long time and I'm getting ready to move back to NYC for the first time in many years. Other than the annual Christmas holiday trip I have lived in BA for the past 15 years. No matter how bad things got, having the ability to easily move back never made me feel stuck like some of these Argentineans have it. Many of our friends have moved to Spain in the past 2 years. They finally threw in the towel.

I will miss Buenos Aires and plan to move back in the future.

 

[Avocado]

El Mirasol was great, had that old school feel like Sottovocce. Definitely a business lunch place during the week, everyone was well dressed. It was packed.

Haven't been to a bad restaurant yet, all the recommendations here have been excellent. A couple of dishes we tried were a bit bland but I'm more into atmosphere than food and Buenos Aires is pretty awesome for atmosphere, even for this early guy.

@CraigM I am curious how you find our pizza here and also our ice cream? Let us know if you like those things. People are always talking bad about our pizza here.

 

[Digital Nomad]

@CraigM I am curious how you find our pizza here and also our ice cream? Let us know if you like those things. People are always talking bad about our pizza here.

Love the ice cream but don't like the pizzas.

 

[Mother Russia Argentina]

More great neighborhoods and restaurants! We walked all over Chacarita yesterday afternoon which was wonderful, stopped at a couple of good cafes and ate lunch at Esquina. Dinner was at Gran Bar Danzon which is a great spot. As usual we were leaving just as the place was revving up with people but there was a noticeable buzz in the air. If you're a late night person this city must be something else.

After the usual morning routines today we had a great lunch at El Mirasol with a couple of attorneys for an oil services company. Super guys and gave us a great perspective on managing a business (not to mention personal finances) through all the hyper inflation. The feeling was that Argentina's future is quite binary - if Milei is able to continue on his reform path and get to the other side of this awful recession, the economy and everything else will take off not to mention foreign investment; otherwise Argentina could be the next Venezuela since that's the path it was on before Milei got elected, and all the people responsible for that are still here (we've heard this same view from several business people). Milei doesn't have a party so he will have to be a very skilled politician to make all this happen.

From what I read, Milei is saying we already passed through the toughest part of recession. We will see. Venezuela formally was a very wealthy country. They let it all go downhill too. I think the world has less room for tyrants now vs. before. It seem like Peronismo is losing ground here and people want change.

 

[Tango]

Have you had a chance to watch any tango @CraigM? You shouldn't leave Buenos Aires without watching some live tango. They dance in San Telmo on Sunday mornings and afternoons. Also, usually in Recoleta on the weekends over near La Biela or you can have your friends take you to a tango show which is fun. Not everyone likes tango but you seem like you are taking in all of the important things and tango is one of them.

Also, this week and next until August 27 is the Tango BA Festival and Mundial. There are lots of competitions around the city. It might be a fun experience for you.

Get Out! High-end tango, prizewinning alfajores and Children’s Day - Buenos Aires Herald

A weekend to celebrate with kids, watch the Tango World Cup, or taste some of the finest alfajores in the country

buenosairesherald.com

 

[Bob]

More great neighborhoods and restaurants! We walked all over Chacarita yesterday afternoon which was wonderful, stopped at a couple of good cafes and ate lunch at Esquina. Dinner was at Gran Bar Danzon which is a great spot. As usual we were leaving just as the place was revving up with people but there was a noticeable buzz in the air. If you're a late night person this city must be something else.

After the usual morning routines today we had a great lunch at El Mirasol with a couple of attorneys for an oil services company. Super guys and gave us a great perspective on managing a business (not to mention personal finances) through all the hyper inflation. The feeling was that Argentina's future is quite binary - if Milei is able to continue on his reform path and get to the other side of this awful recession, the economy and everything else will take off not to mention foreign investment; otherwise Argentina could be the next Venezuela since that's the path it was on before Milei got elected, and all the people responsible for that are still here (we've heard this same view from several business people). Milei doesn't have a party so he will have to be a very skilled politician to make all this happen.

I have eaten at El Mirasol several times. They have great steaks there. On the pricey side since it's right next to the hotel. That restaurant has been there forever. One of the first places I ate on my first trip to Buenos Aires. It's good to see they are still around. I've been enjoying following your reports Craig.

 

[CraigM]

I ate over at the Four Seasons one day. That area near the Four Seasons and Park Hyatt hotel was very upscale. Probably had a lot of business travelers if it was close to there. Food was bland for me but still was good. Did you try any pizza there yet @CraigM? I hated the pizza there but I'm curious if you tried it and what you thought of it. People either love it or hate it.

I haven't tried the pizza yet probably because of the restaurants we've been going to, but I will definitely do so before leaving. I actually don't like the super thin NY style pizza, everyone raves about it these days but I find it a bit bland regardless of ratings or "yeah but you haven't XYZ it's amazing" sort of recommendations. You also have to eat an entire pizza and its crust to feel satisfied. So I will definitely try BA pizza and keep an open mind!

 

[CraigM]

Have you had a chance to watch any tango @CraigM? You shouldn't leave Buenos Aires without watching some live tango. They dance in San Telmo on Sunday mornings and afternoons. Also, usually in Recoleta on the weekends over near La Biela or you can have your friends take you to a tango show which is fun. Not everyone likes tango but you seem like you are taking in all of the important things and tango is one of them.

Also, this week and next until August 27 is the Tango BA Festival and Mundial. There are lots of competitions around the city. It might be a fun experience for you.

Get Out! High-end tango, prizewinning alfajores and Children’s Day - Buenos Aires Herald

A weekend to celebrate with kids, watch the Tango World Cup, or taste some of the finest alfajores in the country

buenosairesherald.com

I had almost forgot about Tango, thank you! I will visit San Telmo this Sunday and make sure to catch a show.

 

[CraigM]

That is a good point Craig. I've lived in Buenos Aires a long time and I'm getting ready to move back to NYC for the first time in many years. Other than the annual Christmas holiday trip I have lived in BA for the past 15 years. No matter how bad things got, having the ability to easily move back never made me feel stuck like some of these Argentineans have it. Many of our friends have moved to Spain in the past 2 years. They finally threw in the towel.

I will miss Buenos Aires and plan to move back in the future.

Interesting perspective as always, Vince. Foreigners usually make all the early money in stock markets in places like Argentina because they're not emotional or anchored to past debacles going back decades. Locals have trouble buying into a recovery until it's obvious to the whole world. That said, foreigners also lose the most by betting too early on false gods (Russia has burned so many people, so many times). I think the case for BA real estate is pretty easy though, it's so cheap for a such a great city that very little has to go right from here.

 

[CraigM]

From what I read, Milei is saying we already passed through the toughest part of recession. We will see. Venezuela formally was a very wealthy country. They let it all go downhill too. I think the world has less room for tyrants now vs. before. It seem like Peronismo is losing ground here and people want change.

I sure hope you're right! My brother and I spent a couple of weeks in Russia in 2002, had a wonderful time and really liked the people.